Grout and Tile Spacers Guide: Joint Sizes, Types and Tips

Grout and spacers are small items that make a big difference to how a tiled floor looks and lasts. Spacers keep the joints even while tiles are laid. Grout fills those joints, locks the tiles together and keeps water and dirt out. Get these right and even a simple tile looks neat for years.

Why tiles need joints

It is tempting to ask for tiles to be laid edge to edge with no gap. It is not a good idea:

• Tiles and the floor underneath expand and contract slightly with heat and moisture.
• Buildings settle and move a little over time.
• No two tiles are exactly the same size, even rectified ones.

A small joint absorbs this movement. Without it, tiles can press against each other and lift (tenting) or crack. Larger floors also need movement joints at intervals and at the edges along walls, which your contractor should plan.

Spacers: choosing the size

Spacers are small plastic crosses, T-shapes or wedges placed between tiles while they set. Common sizes are 1, 1.5, 2, 3, 5 mm and more.

These are typical values. Some manufacturers specify a minimum joint for their tiles, so check the box. A slightly wider joint is better than one too narrow.

Levelling clips and wedges

For large format tiles, levelling systems (clips with wedges or caps) hold neighbouring tile edges at the same height while the adhesive sets. This reduces lippage, where one tile edge sits higher than the next. They are removed after the adhesive sets. Read more in large format tiles pros and cons.

Grout types

Cement grout

The traditional choice. It is easy to apply and economical. The downside is that it is porous, so it absorbs water and stains over time, especially in bathrooms and kitchens. A grout sealer can help.

Epoxy grout

Epoxy grout is made of resin and hardener. Once cured, it is non-porous, so water, oil and stains stay on the surface and wipe off. It also resists fungus. It is the better choice for:

• Shower areas and bathroom floors.
• Kitchen counters, backsplash and floors.
• Swimming pool surrounds and commercial kitchens.

It costs more, sets quickly and must be cleaned off the tile face before it hardens, so it needs a careful, experienced hand.

Choosing grout colour

• Matching colour: grout close to the tile colour makes joints disappear and the floor look continuous. Good for marble-look and large format tiles.
• Contrasting colour: shows the pattern, for example dark grout with white subway tiles.
• Mid-tones (grey, beige) hide dirt better than pure white on floors.

White cement grout on a busy floor will darken over time. If you want a light floor, consider epoxy or a light grey grout.

Grouting tips for good results

• Wait for the adhesive or mortar to set before grouting, as per the product instructions.
• Clean joints of dust and excess adhesive first.
• Press grout fully into the joint with a rubber float, working diagonally across the tiles.
• Wipe off the excess with a damp sponge before it hardens. Dried grout haze is hard to remove later.
• Keep the area free of foot traffic for the time the product recommends.

Looking after grout

• Sweep regularly so grit does not wear the joints.
• Mop with a neutral cleaner. Strong acids can eat into cement grout.
• In bathrooms, wipe down after use and keep the room ventilated to limit fungus.
• Re-grout cracked or crumbling joints early, before water gets under the tiles.

Our cleaning and maintenance guide has more care tips.

Quick summary

Get it right from the start

When you choose your tiles at Patidar Ceramic, ask us about suitable joint widths and grout colours for that tile. Call or visit to check what spacers and grout are currently available.